Many of us have one: a ring in a velvet box that belonged to a grandmother or great-aunt. It sparkles differently from modern diamonds. Softer, maybe. Warmer. You might wear it on special occasions, or you might never have been quite sure what it is.
Old diamonds carry stories, and an expert can read many of them. Here's what your heirloom might be telling you.
Clue 1: The cut shows its age
Before modern machinery, diamonds were cut largely by hand and eye. The style of cut is often the best clue to when a stone was made.
- Old mine cut: a cushion-like shape with a high top, a small table and a visible circle at the bottom (the culet). Popular in the 18th and 19th centuries.
- Old European cut: round, with chunky facets and a small table. Common from the late 1800s into the early 1900s. It gives broad flashes of light rather than modern "pinfire" sparkle.
- Rose cut: flat on the bottom and domed on top with triangular facets, like a rosebud. It has a gentle, candlelit glow.
Clue 2: That tiny window at the bottom
Look through the top of many antique diamonds and you'll see a small circle in the center. That's the culet, a tiny flat facet older cutters often added. Modern round brilliants usually come to a point.
Clue 3: The setting has its own history
Platinum filigree, milgrain edges and hand engraving can point to particular eras. The metal and its markings can also offer clues. Sometimes the setting has been replaced over the years while the diamond stayed the same.
Should you recut an old diamond?
Some people recut old stones into modern shapes. It can add brightness, but it also removes weight and history. Many antique cuts are now highly sought after for their character. Get expert advice before you change anything that can't be undone.
Caring for an heirloom
- Check the prongs. Worn prongs are the most common reason old stones are lost.
- Clean it gently. Warm water, mild soap and a soft brush are usually enough.
- Get it appraised. An up-to-date appraisal helps with insurance.
- Store it separately. Diamonds can scratch other jewelry, and softer stones can be damaged.
Learn to see it for yourself
On The New York Tour of Diamonds, many guests wear their family rings. By the end of the 90 minutes they understand them in a whole new way. Hemant, who has spent more than 25 years in the diamond industry, teaches you how to hold a diamond with tweezers, look through a jeweler's loupe, and see how cut shapes sparkle. You'll also see how a loose diamond is set into jewelry, which makes it easier to understand your own ring's setting.
The tour takes place on West 47th Street, New York's Diamond District, a short walk from Rockefeller Center and Times Square.
Quick answers
Can I wear my heirloom ring on the tour? Of course. It often leads to the best conversations.
Will you tell me what it's worth? The tour isn't an appraisal, but you'll learn what experts look at.
Is it a good activity for mothers and daughters? It's one of our favorites.
Visiting New York with family this fall?
Bring the ring and the stories. Book The New York Tour of Diamonds ahead of your trip. Tours run Monday to Friday with small groups.